It’s Been Too Long!

Let’s just get this out of the way. First off we are sorry for not posting on the website in over a month! Secondly we want to apologize for not getting the Spring Issue out at the beginning of April. You can expect to see it early next week. Both Mike and I have been extremely busy with our day jobs and have fallen a bit behind. There have also been a few instances where I have either been to tired to work on the magazine or just wanted to spend time with family instead, which I won’t apologize for. My family comes first!

Now that we got that out of the way we can move on. You will see some changes in the upcoming issue. We have shortened it considerably. We did this for a couple reasons. The first reason is that after looking at all the data from the first issue most of the views were in the first half of the magazine.  We also knew that if we wanted to continue to put out an issue every quarter we had to make it shorter. Mike and I just don’t have time to put together a 50 plus page magazine and still maintain our sanity.

Don’t forget we still have about 20 days left on our Kickstarter campaign, which you can check out here. We still have a long way to go but feel like we can achieve our goal with your help!

I have managed to squeeze in a small amount of shop time built a Cornhole/Bags set (depending on which part of the country from). Something I have been meaning do for a long time now. The bases are built out  of 3/4″ poplar and I used cabinet grade 3/4″ plywood for the tops. I used pocket holes for all the joinery. The boards were primed and painted with three coats of exterior paint. I sprayed four coats of Miniwax Polycrylic for the topcoat. I had a friend make the decals for me. Don’t hold it against me that I am Cubs fan!

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James

Meet Contributing Editor John Poulos (A.K.A Chopnhack

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I would like to welcome John Poulos (A.K.A Chopnhack) as a contributing editor for Weekend Warrior Woodworking Magazine. We look forward to John’s articles and are glad to have as part our team. Here is what John had to say.

Hello everybody!  I got started in woodworking by way of rough carpentry several years back.  What really stoked my fire was finish carpentry, the ability to dress up a pig, so to speak ;-)  My first tool was a shop built router table, not your normal entry into woodworking, granted, but to me at the time it seemed a logical approach since all I really wanted to do was produce molding… live and learn!

I make dust out of a two car garage that I share with mostly my own clutter and 4 bicycles, some household supplies, the hot water tank, the air handler, well, you know how that goes…  I am eternally setting up shop, trying to get my mess under control so that I can spend more time making stuff instead of cleaning stuff up.  Along the way I have made some interesting projects and shop implements.  I hope to pass on some of the things I have learned along the way and look forward to meeting and learning from you!

 

John Poulos

A.K.A. – Chopnhack

Protect Your Back and Your Tools for Cheap!

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One of the major drawbacks of working in a garage shop is having to stand on cold concrete in the winter. Not only is it bad for your back but also for your tools. I tend to get a little clumsy and have been known to let a tool or two slip out of my hand and onto to floor…doh! Up until now I only had one 2′ x 3′ EVA floor mat in my shop. I picked it up at woodcraft on sale for about $20. Last week when the wife and I were doing our usual Costco run I saw they were selling interlocking foam floor tiles for $9.99. Each package came with 8 interlocking tiles covering 32 square feet. This is a much cheaper and better looking option then buying several mats from Woodcraft or the like. I quickly snatched up two packages, my only regret is I now wish I had gotten a couple more. I can see several other uses for these foam tiles outside of the shop. The only problem is when I go back to Costco they will surely be sold out.  If you don’t have a Costco membership or don’t have one in your area, they can be found on Amazon in a wide variety of styles, sizes, and prices.

 

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Shaker Cabinet Part IV: Finishing Up

First I want to apologize for taking so long to get this final post up. It was not my intention but a stomach bug put me out of commission for most of the week. When I was feeling better I needed to get in the shop and work on a project for the next issue of the magazine so the final part of the Shaker Cabinet build got put on hold.

Last time I left you I had just installed the back panel and made all the doors for cabinet. All that was left was the made the toe kick, the drawer, apply finish, and install the hardware.

The toe kick is just made from one piece of dimensional Radiata Pine that was 1 x 2 x 8′. I used a jack plane and put a chamfer on the outside edge of the toe kick. The corners were mitered at 45 ‘s, glued and nailed with in place with headless brads.

I painted the cabinet with two coats of Behr Atlantic Blue Deckcover paint, applied with a foam brush. I did a light sanding in between coats and let it dry for two days. I then sprayed three coats of Polycrylic that I had leftover from another project. I let this cure for 4 days, then I went over the entire cabinet with a Festool S2000 Platin abrasive pad and little bit of wax.

For the hardware I just used some simple H hinges and Shaker style nobs that I picked up from the home store.

Below are some pictures from this part of the build.

I hope you enjoyed the build, if you have any questions please fell free the drop a comment in the comment section or send me an email. Next up will be a Dutch Tool Chest, which will be started sometime in March.

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Shaker Cabinet Part III: Back Panel and Doors

Here is the third installment of the Shaker Cabinet covering the back panels and doors. The back panel was cut from the same piece of plywood that was used for the cabinet.

Back Panel:
The dimensions of the back panel are 30.9″ x 27″. The back panel is attached to the side frames using glue and cut nails. It is also attached to the cabinet base with 2″ Spax screws. Since the back is always going to be facing the wall I didn’t really think it was necessary to countersink the screws or cut the v grooves in the back to give it a ship-lapped look.

Doors:

The door for the front cabinet is cut from one 8′ x 7.25 x 3/4″ Radiata Pine Board cut in too three equal pieces that are each just over 6″ wide making the door around 18.4″ x 20″. Each piece was rounded over on each edge with a Rabbet Block Plane, glued and held together with Battens and fine-cut headless brads from Tremont Nail.

The side doors were constructed where originally supposed to be constructed with two pieces of dimensional Radiata Pine that are 27″ x 7.25″ 3/4″, leaving about a 1/4″ reveal all the way around. I made one mistake while making the side doors. I thought that the dimensional pine was 7.5″ in width but when the door was constructed I noticed that it was about 1/2″ shorter than what I calculated. I looked at the price tag on one of the off cut pieces and noticed that it was actually 7.25.  This was too big of a gap not to try to fix. I cut a 1.5″ piece and glued it into the middle of the two 7.25″ wide boards which made for a much tighter fit but look a whole lot better.

Here is a gallery of pictures with more details from this part of the build:

James

Shaker Cabinet Part II

Shaker Cabinet Part II: Face Frame

It took me a little longer than I expected to get this second part out of the Shaker Cabinet build out be here it is. Last time I left you the carcass was complete I was getting ready to move onto the face frames. This is actually more than just a face frame. The face frame actually forms two side cabinets that are 5″ in length. The two side cabinets will also receive face frames and then a back will be added for rigidity. The face frames are attached to carcass using cut nails and glue. I have only used cut nails one other time and that was a couple of years ago.  Nothing fancy here, just dimensional Radiata Pine and pocket screws for the face frame. Here are the final dimensions:

Front Sides- 37 “x 5.5″

Front Bottom Rail- 18.4″ x 5.5″

Front Top Rail- 18.4″ x 3.5″

Front Drawer rail- 18.4″  x 2.5″

Side Face Frames

Stiles 37 “x 2.5″ (4)

Top rails 15.5 “x 3.5″ (2)

Bottom Rails 15.5″ x 5.5″ (2)

I left each side frame 3/4″ wider than the carcass. I am going to attach a back panel to add rigidity and help keep everything square.

Here are some photos and description from this part of the build:

 

Shaker Cabinet Part I

Shaker Cabinet Part 1

This is the first article in a series for a Shaker Cabinet that I am building for my joinery bench. If you missed my last post, I mentioned that the metal base I currently have the joinery bench on is not working nearly as well as I thought it would. This cabinet is somewhat based off the Shaker Workbench that BenchCrafted built on their website but scaled down to fit the my joinery bench. There are also few joinery and design changes that I have made along the way. What’s great about this build is that its all built from big box plywood and dimensional lumber. I decided to go with dimensional lumber just to simplify the process and really see what kind of product I could produce using of the shelf S4S stock. Before we get started, I am going to list the materials used and joinery methods for this build.

The cabinet will feature 1 larger compartment in front with two doors and one drawer above it. There will be two smaller storage compartments, one on each side of the cabinet with one door. The cabinet is built out of plywood and the face and side frames are built out of dimensional Radiata Pine.

Materials:

1- sheet Birch Plywood

1- 12′ x 6″ x 1  ( Radiata Pine)

1-6′ x 6″ x 1 (Radiata Pine)

1- 8′ x 4″ x 1  (Radiata Pine)

2-8′ x 3″ x 1 (Radiata Pine)

1- 6′ x 6″ x 1/2″ (Poplar, this is for the drawer)

1- 6′ x 1 x 1/4 trim (pine)

- Box of 2″ Flat Head Spax Screws,

- Box of 1 1/4″ Flat Head Spax Screws

- Cut Nails for Tremont Nail Company

- Square Drive pocket screws from Mcfeely’s

Have not decided on the hardware for the doors yet. I am thinking about going with just some simple H hinges that Home Depot had in stock.

I am going to paint the cabinet with Behr Deckcover, just not sure on the color yet.

Joinery Methods used during the build:

I wanted to keep the joinery somewhat simple that is kind of the point of the build. Simple materials and simple joinery. I will be using much of the same joinery methods that BC used during their build, simple butt joints reinforced with glue and the Spax screws and the let the frame add rigidity. BC used 5/4 poplar and half lap joinery for their frame construction. I wanted to keep is simpler by using dimensional lumber and pocket screws for the face frame. I am usually not a big proponent of pocket screws but for the face frame it just makes sense. To attach the face frame to cabinet I used cut glue and cut nails just like BC did and let me tell there is no question about the strength of this cabinet. Onto the build!

Cabinet Carcass:

The entire cabinet is going to be 30.9″ wide x 37″ tall x 20″ deep, these are the dimensions of my joinery bench top. I am trying to avoid having to attaching the top to the base using hardware. I want to be able to remove the top easily in the future.  The main cabinet is going to be just shy of 18.4″ wide. Because I am using dimensional lumber, I got this number by taking my overall length which is 30.9″ subtracting 5.5″ for each of the side cabinets and 1.5″ for the thickness of each side cabinet face frame. If this does not make sense, it will further along in the build.

I  had to have Home Depot make a couple so I could fit the plywood into my SUV and bring it home. Here is the 8 x 4 sheet of Birch Plywood ready for the carcass pieces to be cut from it. The

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The easiest way for me to handle plywood in my small shop is to break it down on garage floor laying some insulation foam underneath the plywood. I don’t trust the cut from HD to be exactly true, so the first thing I do is square up one edge and one side of the plywood.

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I cut the two sides, shelf, shelf supports and back from the sheet of plywood. I left everything about an 1″ oversized. I took both sides pieces and cut them to length and width using the MFT/3 and TS 75. The easiest way to do this was to gang the two sides together and cut them to final dimensions in one pass. I want the overall depth to be 20″ but I have to account for both the face frame and the back panel. This meant that the depth two carcass sides is 18.5″.

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There is 5.5″ from the bottom of the cabinet to the bottom shelf. I wanted to add shelf supports to add to overall structure of the cabinet. The top of the bottom shelf is sitting at 5.5″ from the floor, I cut the shelf supports to 4.75″ x 18.5″, when the I glue and screw the shelf in, it will sit at 5.5″. I  do know that plywood is not exactly 3/4″ but that is okay, there will be a very small gap at the bottom of the cabinet when I attach the face frame but it will be covered by trim that goes around the base of the cabinet. I cut the shelf supports to size right at the table saw, first to width and then used the miter gauge and cut both pieces at the same time.

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It was now time to glue and screw the carcass pieces together, with a little tight bond III and the SPAX screws and had about six inches in between the screws. IMG_20140101_222221558_HDR

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Next up is the face frame and side cabinets.

James

Here is another shot of the left side of the garage. The one big problem that I run into, is when I have to cut boards longer than 40", the kegerator and joinery bench get in the way.

Current State of My Shop

The current state of my shop is a state of clutter and lack of organization but this is all going to change in 2014. In my last post I mentioned that I have several shop projects for 2014, which I do. First I thought it would be appropriate for you to get a look straight into the belly of the beast…my shop. It’s not very big, a one car garage that shares space with household overflow, bikes, and a Kegerator.  I feel it’s very cluttered and the lack of organization is starting to get to me. I really like the idea of working in a well-organized shop. There is nothing I can do about space but I can make it more organized and improve my workflow. The cabinet for the joinery bench is already underway and the first article should be out Saturday morning.

James

2014

Happy New Year! Website Will Focus on Shop Projects in 2014

2014

Let me start off by wishing everyone a Happy New Year!

One of the challenges with having a small shop is that you are always looking for more space, everything seems very cluttered and unorganized and I guess in a way it is. My focus for 2014 will be several shop projects and appliances in an effort to improve my shop organization and work flow. All of these projects will be covered here on the website and there will more than likely be a page dedicated to these shop projects. Here are some of the projects I have planned for 2014.

  • Shaker style cabinet for my joinery bench.
  • Dutch Tool Chest
  • English Joiners Bench (Smaller 6′ version, only one vise)
  • German Work Box
  • Hand Tool appliances (winding sticks, straight edge, saw bench, saw horses, shooting board and a few others)
  • Crosscut sled
  • Rolling shop cart.

There will be a few others added to the list as well. I am making no guarantee that I will build all these projects in 2014 because life happens, but I will try. First up is the is the Shaker cabinet for my joinery bench. Mainly because the metal base that I have been using is a piece of junk. Happy 2014!

James

Seasons Greetings

Hello Everyone,

I guess this is technically my first blog post (ever), so I’ll keep this short and sweet.  To all of our readers, around the world, across all creeds, I offer a happy holidays and a wishes for an excellent coming year.  Here at 4WM, James and I are cooking up some great ideas for 2014, and as holiday present, here’s a quick preview of some of our better ideas:

  • Short how-to videos in the magazine
  • Indexed stable pdfs of every article in the magazine
  • Guest posts from contributing authors
  • More giveaways
  • Quarterly contests
  • A kickstarter campaign, offering authentic 4WM gear

Thanks again, for all your support!

 

Magazine for woodworkers by woodworkers

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